Mt. Garfield 8/30

It looks like they had a good day. They are camping on Mt Garfield, the first mountain in the Presidential Range. They are camping at around 4,000 ft of elevation.

On the Trail Again 8/30

Ryan called this morning and said that as of 8:00 am portions of the park are reopening. The majority of the blow downs and trail flooding is in the southern part of the park. The AT takes a more northern route. They have opened the AT with the caveat that you travel at your own risk. There is a group of 15 - 20 north bounders getting on the trail at the same time so they will remain bunched up for a few days. Ryan said he’d make an extra effort to keep his GPS pings coming.

Trail Closed Unitl Further Notice 8/29

Talked to Ryan Monday evening. He, Bluefoot, and Kipper are still holed up in a motel in Woodstock, N.H. The White Mountain National Forest webite is now saying that the trail is closed until further notice. At this point it’s hard to say when it will open. Ryan said the weather has cleared nicely but the streams around Woodstock are still raging. Most have dropped but they are still impassable. They are hoping for a Tuesday opening. He said there are quite a few through hikers piling up in Woodstock. Several of them attempted to get back on the trial Monday morning and were returned to town by the Rangers.
They were working through their options. They can wait it out. They could go north and hike southbound back into the Whites. Ryan is committed to finish the trail as a northbound hiker. The next few days will drive that decision. One thing they were all sure of was that they would have to check out of the hotel today. While the trail may seem like a free and unencumbered adventure the cost for a through hike averages around $5,000. Everyone is getting tight on their finances. Motels are not part of the budget.
He’s still very upbeat and talked about how hard it is to “relax”. The down time is nice from a healing up perspective but he said they all feel like trapped animals. After six month outdoors, anything over a night indoors loses its novelty quickly. The weather is supposed to be sunny and in the high 60’s over the next week so they are anxious to get back in the woods.

Flooding in Woodstock, N.H. 8/28 - Trail Closed Until Further Notice

Clermont Sun Article 8/27

The Clermont Sun newspaper ran an article on Ryan a few weeks ago.  They also plan on doing a follow up after the trail.  I recently realized that they had the article on their WEB site as well.  The link is:

http://clermontsun.com/2011/07/28/batavia-man-is-hiking-2180-mile-trail/

Woodstock, New Hampshire 8/27

Ryan checked in from a motel in West Woodstock, New Hampshire.  They made it in around 3:00 this afternoon after two 13 mile days through the Whites.  As of 6:00 PM this afternoon the White Mountain National Forest has been closed until Monday at midnight due to the anticipated storm.  Ryan and Bluefoot’s decision to call ahead and get a motel was a good one.  He said the entire town is sold out. The national forest can be closed for weather but it is extremely rare for this time of year.  They are expecting considerable blow downs in the mid elevations.   Due to the mountain elevation in the Whites wind speeds can be as much as twice as strong as they are at lower elevation. 

Ryan was really pumped up about the first two days in the White Mountains.  He describes them as freakin awesome.  Friday they scaled Mt Moosilauke at over 4,000 feet and above tree line at the summit.  He said the last two days have been perfect weather and they got a rare glimpse of Mt. Washington from the peak.  There are only about 30 days per year that Mt Moosilauke is clear enough to see Mt Washington.  He described the climb as brutal.  Most of the climb up and back down was on shear rock faces and was hand over hand climbing.  He said there were many places where the trail club has drilled pitons into the faces for hand and foot holds.

They are hoping the storm fizzles out or moves through quickly because they are very anxious to get back on the trail.  

While I was on the phone with Ryan Bluefoot broke into the room to announce that the deli next door to the hotel was incredible.  The phone call was over at that point.  I’m sure we’ll hear more from him this weekend.  They are pretty well motel bound. 

Hurricane Irene 8/26

Without fail, if I say I don’t expect to hear from him, he calls.  He is in Glencliff.  They spent the night at a trail hostel.  His phone is not working well in the area but the hostel had a phone they let the hikers use.  Most of the discussion revolved around Hurricane Irene.  He said he’s been really surprised at the local reaction.  There are a lot of preparations being made for the storm which is predicted to center over the area Sunday morning.  With the White Mountains to the north and a predicted path over central New Hampshire the locals are predicting heavy rain and high winds.  They are throwing around the term nor’easter. 

There are many people moving inland from the shore.  In anticipation of being stranded in the mountains in a tent Ryan and Bluefoot have made reservations at a motel in West Woodstock for Sunday night and Monday if necessary. They will need to cover 28 miles Friday and Saturday.  Kipper stayed behind in Hanover and should catch back up mid week.  Chimp is off the trail for a week to attend to some personal things at home.  He rented a car in Hanover and is driving back to the Midwest.

New Hampshire so far has been described as “awesome”.  The terrain is rocky with lots of shear rock faces and rock scrambles.  A good day in this terrain is 13-15 miles.  Glencliff marks the start of the Whites and they will have their first 4,000 ft + climb today in order to get to Woodstock.  This storm represents the first time Ryan has decided to hunker down for any weather since leaving Georgia.  The banter of the locals have put some concern in his head and it’s probably a good thing.  The Whites can be rough in good weather. 

He said the absolute priority now is to protect the dream of finishing the 2,181 miles of the Appalachian trail.  

Glencliff, N.H. / White Mountains 8/25

We have not heard much from Ryan and Company since Hanover, NH.  They spent a down day near Dartmouth College sometime last weekend.   He made a couple of attempts to call but the connection was bad and the call was short.  He sent a GPS ping around 3:00 this afternoon putting him in Glencliff, NH.  They are officially in the White Mountain National Forest.  At Glencliff, he has hiked 1,782 miles.  He has exactly 400 to go. 
 

From what I could understand a few of the hikers he is with are running out of money.  There was a prospect of staying in Hanover an extra day and doing some kind of work for someone.  I never was able to get the details.  Ryan appeared to be on the move by Monday morning.  He did miss a couple of GPS pings but his progress indicated he has been on the move the entire week.

The Whites and the Presidential Range promise to be a challenging hike by not only altitude but also weather extremes, bears, and moose.  Checking the park bulletin board, they are warning of considerable bear activity in the park.  The ultimate challenge in the Whites will be Mount Washington. At 6,500 feet Mount Washington holds the world wind speed record and many temperature records. During a wild April storm in 1934, a wind gust of 231 miles per hour (372 kilometers per hour) pushed across the summit of Mount Washington. This wind speed still stands as the all-time surface wind speed observed by man record. 80 mph is common on most days.

The predicted track of the hurricane heading up the east coast takes the storm right up through Hew Hampshire and into the White Mountains.  That should add another level of excitement.  Last week Ryan was telling me how much they enjoyed heavy rain and hail.  His theory was that after walking 1700+ miles it took a lot to add challenge.  A good storm added to the challenge and excitement.  They looked forward to bad weather.

Thee will be few chances to hear from him for the next few weeks. I believe he sent another picture card from Hanover. If so, it should come today or tomorrow. 

NEW PICTURES 8/19

There is a new batch of pictures over in the right column.  These are from the start of Connecticut to Wallingford Vermont.   Kipper, Chimp and Spork all got packages in Killington.  They took a down day, shared a motel room, got their clothes washed, showered and rested up for the balance of Vermont and the Whites through New Hampshire.  Everyone got their warm clothes and bags back in the mail. 
Ryan called Wednesday evening.  He has a new phone and is getting good reception. They should be breaking 1700 miles some time today.  They have under 500 miles to go and expect to finish the last week of September. Ryan said he'd keep in touch as much as possible and send updates for the blog.

  

Wallingford, VT 8/15

Ryan and Kipper made it into Wallingford, VT right after noon today.  Ryan was able to get his packages and now has ID and money again.  He said it was a great load off his mind.  It had been raining steadily since yesterday afternoon and the trip into Wallingord was a wet and slipper hike. 

Moose Poop and Hummingbirds in Vermud 8/14

Ryan called Saturday morning to say that he was not going to make it into Wallingford on Saturday.  He would be there by Monday morning to get his packages.  He also asked that we move his warm clothes and sleeping bag shipment up from Hartford to Killington.  Over the past few days they have only been able to manage 13-15 miles per day.  They are getting to 4,000+ feet mountains again and progress is slowed due to the climbs and mud.  Night time temperatures are staying consistently in the 50’s with days running in the low 70’s. 

The woods continue to thicken and pines are becoming the predominant growth.  Sunlight making it to the forest floor is rare. Even without rain the trail tends to be wet and muddy. Hikers refer to Vermont as Vermud.  He said he has fallen more in the past 75 miles than he has the entire duration of the trail.  Every hiker you pass has a muddy rear end and pack where they have slipped and fallen.  The trick is to go immediately on your rear end and back to keep from getting hurt.  Lower elevations were needle covered but the slopes are exposed slick roots, rocks and mud.  No one has escaped busting their rear end.

For the first time they are seeing signs of Moose.  The trail is littered with droppings.  He referred to it as deer poop on steroids. Everyone is keeping their cameras ready to get a picture.  He said the woods here are also filled with hummingbirds.  They are constantly buzzing around and hovering briefly as if to look you over.   At first they thought the mosquitoes had grown to ridiculous proportions.

They camped Saturday night just outside Manchester Center.  They should have a couple of relatively short days getting into Wallingford.  Even without ID he was able to replace some of his worn gear at an Outfitter in Manchester Center.  His sleeping pad sprung a leak for the third time.  His water bottle developed a leak and his gaiter’s strap broke.  Here is the advantage of purchasing good outdoor gear. They have replaced every item without question.   

This next week will be a good warm up for the White Mountain to come.  They will be at elevation for most of the rest of the trip into Maine.  The White through New Hampshire will be the highlight of this section of the trail but wild swings in temperatures and weather are possible.  Ryan should have everything he needs to hike in the conditions. 

He will be calling from Wallingford Monday morning to let us know they made it in and hopefully send a SD card home. 

He openly admitted that the past week was fairly stressful, something he was avoiding, but he was settling down and once he gets his packages he’ll be fine.  He continues to hike with Kipper and the same group he’s been with for the past month.  They plan on staying together through the balance of the trip.  Many sections of the trail ahead are difficult and remote. Having other hikers to rely on is the safe bet.

In spite of the past week he is still upbeat, committed, and strong.  

Ryan specifically asked that I thank several people for the donations they have made this week.  He appreciates the assistance. Every dollar helps.   

Chilly in Vermont 8/12

We had a brief call from Ryan Thursday afternoon.  He was on a fire tower on the top of a mountain.  Phone service is very sketchy throughout Vermont and for the balance of his trip.  He said he was doing well.  He's averaging right around 20 miles/day but it is taking a lot longer to make this mileage than it has been.  He needs to get into Wallingford before noon on Saturday to get his package. If he doesn't make it he will have to hold over in Wallingford until Monday.  This package containes what ID we could get together, cash, and his ATM card replacement.  Oh yea, honey buns. 

We're immediately trying to get another drop set up for Hanover, New Hampshire.  He's in summer weight clothes and sleeping gear.  He wants his sleeping bag and some warmer clothes ASAP.  They were taken by surprise by the rapid drop in temperatures in Vermont.  For the past two weeks he's headed almost due north.   Right now they are about level with Upper Michigan so the temps will continue to drop.  The average temperatures in Vermont is still fairly high but there can be wild swings due to storms and the altitude through the White Mountains.  Nighttimes temps under freezing is not uncommon.  I checked yesterday and the temperature on Mount Washington was a low in the 30's with 85 mile per hour winds.  He's still a few weeks out from here but will be near this elevation several times in the coming weeks. 

He's been using a "pay as you go" ATT phone.  Looking at the coverage map he will start to completely lose service by the first of next week.  There appears to be some 3G coverage through N.H. and Maine.  We're going to try to get his Iphone hooked back up so he will have some sort of phone service in the coming month. He has his Iphone with him but is mainly using it as an Ipod. 

As long as he gets his package in Wallingford he'll be fine. I should know by Saturday afternoon. He told me Monday he was carrying enough food to get him into this coming weekend.  I'll post as soon as I find out.
He sounded in good spirits and was really enjoying Vermont.  He's never excited about hiking with a specific time agenda but making it into Wallingford is critical. 

Trail Progress 7/10 to 8/10

Vermont 8/9

Based on his GPS ping, Ryan entered Vermont this morning.  His hike has taken him 1,588 miles with 592 to go.    Ryan called Saturday and again on Sunday.  His Saturday call was upbeat and filled with trail details like a mouse getting into his food bag and more talk about the changes in weather and scenery he has seen through Massachusetts.  He talked about how great the people have been in New England. The weather has been consistently in the 70’s. He’s been averaging well over 20 miles per days for quite some time and felt that it was time to pull back a bit. This is the part of the trail he’s been wanting to see since Georgia. He describes the trail here as smooth and pine needle covered.  There are ponds, lakes and streams everywhere. He was starting to see a lot of ferns and interesting new undergrowth. He describes the woods here as having an almost Jurassic feel.  They will be hiking Mount Greylock in the coming days and he was looking forward to that.   

The only real negative he’s mentioned about this area is the size and veracity of the mosquitoes.   To quote the Spork: “Holy shit, they’re like rats with wings”. He’s asked that we help find some non Deet mosquito spray.  He’s not had much luck finding any.  His quest for honey buns has been equally nonproductive. 

Ryan started the trail at 162 lbs.  He weighed himself yesterday and weighed in at 137 lbs. His beard continues to grow at a 2/1 pace over the other hikers he is with.  He must be getting adequate protein or the beard is robbing his body of nutrients, or, the additional weight and wind resistance of the beard is burning extra calories.  He doesn’t appreciate the beard jokes nearly as much as we like telling them. 

He’s been hiking fairly steadily over the last month with Kipper, Chimp, Caboose, and Kwai.  Achilles who’s been part of this group is about two days behind and should catch up in the coming week.  He has talked about who they are and where they come from but I’ve not quite tied the names to the stories yet.  Their plan was to spend the night at a Hostel in Dalton, Mass. They heard of the place from other hikers.  The owner of the Hostel caters to through hikers and provides rides to and from the trailhead. As a former through hiker he refuses to accept a dime from any of the hikers.  Again, Ryan really praises the generosity and kindness of the people of this area to hikers. 

The call on Sunday was less pleasant.  Ryan and two other hikers had the unfortunate experience of running into a group of less than friendly locals in Dalton.  He also had the unpleasant experience of losing his money, wallet and identification.  The wallet issue has created many issues over the past two days.  It is simply impossible to replace a driver’s license if lost out of state.  The phone calls have been endless and futile. As it stands right now his Checking Card is being replaced and we’re setting up a mail drop to get it and what forms of identification we can find.  There was some discussion of coming back to Ohio for a couple of days to get his driver’s license but without photo ID he cannot get on a plane, train, or bus.  Renting a car is also impossible. 

I am sure Ryan will be more than willing to regale you with the details sometime this Winter.  But for now, it’s being taken care of and Ryan has made the decision to push on and finish the trip to Maine.  He felt that leaving the trail at this time would really put him in jeopardy of not finishing.  It is all part of the experience and not discussing it would only be telling part of the story.  He had the wind knocked out of his sails for a day or so but he’s back on track.  Again, trail magic has come to the rescue.  The gesture came as a simple act of kindness from a complete stranger, exactly what he was talking about on Saturday.  He lost track of the positive on Sunday but had regained it by Monday evening with an added note of caution.   People are generally good but the world also has a sprinkling of evil.  It adds contrast and keeps us from becoming complacent. Everything is working out.  A small post office in Vermont has agreed to let him accept a package without photo ID.  It should be to him by this Friday. 

He is fine and stomping through the woods somewhere in Southern Vermont. Hopefully, he will send home some pictures on Friday.      

New Pictures, Rattlesnakes, Beards, and Bogs - 8/4

There is a new group of pictures in the right column.  These are from entering New Jersey through New york and into Connecticut. 

Massachusetts 8/3

Ryan called just minutes after making that last post.  He was in Massachusetts and was in particularly good spirits.  He said it was the prettiest day on the trail since leaving Georgia.  The temperature was in the low 70’s and they were sitting on top of a mountain eating lunch. In the valley below they could see three lakes and no roads or houses for as far as the eye could see.   He went on about the drastic change in scenery and temperatures.  He said it had been great sleeping weather and the woods in Connecticut and Mass were perfect for hiking.  The canopy shades the trail and undergrowth is minimal.  

The only down side he has found with his new latitude is a disturbing lack of honey buns in any of the trail stores.  He explained that honey buns are his latest trail craving and he considers them the perfect trail food.  They have lots of carbs, lots of calories, light weight, and they tasted as good smashed in your pack as they do fully inflated.  He said that water has been abundant for the last hundred miles and is coming primarily from natural springs along the trail.  A good water supply means less weight and better hydration.   So far the springs in New England have been abundant and clean.  He’s not had to filter water for days.  The water is pumping out of the ground cool, clear and clean.  Trail Maintainers and Rangers say that as long as you can see the source and it’s pumping right out of the ground you are safe to drink without filtering.  Water filtering on the trail is not only time consuming but expensive. 

Although I’ve never heard Ryan speak of the trip as anything but enjoyable, he spoke with particular reverence for the trail and the adventure.  As far away as the end still is, he seems to be looking forward to that day with both joy and sadness.   He really seemed intent on enjoying every moment of the next two months.  He refuses to leave Maine without a picture of a moose.  He’s very excite about hitting the White Mountains.  Southbound hikers often start in mid June and they are running into quite a few south bounders at this point.  Apparently, they are telling some intriguing stories of the Whites. 

He used that worn out phrase of finally “hitting his stride”.  He’s been saying that since South Carolina.  I think he’s there.  He is starting to get back into some elevation and was surprised just how easy the ups-and-downs have become. He said he is doing 2,000 feet of elevation change without a break, a drink, or even getting winded. 

It hard not to be somewhat envious. 

Still waiting on that picture disk!

4 months, 11 states, 1500 miles 8/2

NYC down time to Massachusetts

Ryan camped last night about a mile from the Connecticut/Massachusetts border.  This represents the completion of his 11^th state and 1,500 miles of hiking.  Today he has been on the trail for 119 days. Based on actual hiking days he has averaged 16.3 miles per day.  He has about 2 month to complete the last 680 miles of trail through Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.  It’s unlikely that he will be able to average anywhere near these numbers through New Hampshire and Maine so it is important that he keep up an aggressive pace for the next few hundred miles.  Ryan said over the weekend that it was important to him to take the time to enjoy New England.

Most of the trail this week has been through dense State Forests and Reservations.  He said he was starting to see a significant change in the forest from new grown to older growth forest.  While it’s still been hot, nighttime temperatures are starting to fall into the 50’s the further north he progresses.  He will be changing gear in the next few weeks.   We’re planning a mail drop for Vermont. 

Looking forward to new pictures this week.