On to the Continental Divide Trail - Summer 2014

I will begin my 3,100 mile hike of the Continental Divide Trail on April 30 2014.  I have a new Blog at www.sporkventures.com.  Please stop by and follow me throughout the summer.

Ryan (Spork) Iker

Spork on the Appalachian Trail

VIDEO PRODUCTION OF ENTIRE TRIP

Pacific Crest Trail Blog

This is the link to my Pacific Crest Trail Blog:

http://ikerhike.blogspot.com

ON TO THE PACIFIC CREST TRAIL

As some of you may know and some may not, I have decided to do the Pacific Crest Trail this summer from Mexico to Canada with my AT hiking buddy Chimp.  I'll be setting up a new blog to record the trip and will post the address here ASAP.  I have more to say about the AT and promise to finish up some of what I started in the last post but right now I'm in Tucson training and trying to put some funds away.

Ryan

After more time than it should have taken me, I realize I finally need to put some of my thoughts to paper.  It has now been almost 3 months since coming off the trail.  I find myself in Tucson, in December, in shorts. The trail seems like yesterday but it also has this dream-like quality of something that has occurred in my distant past.  I am now on the other side of the country surrounded by deserts and mountains.  I guess I couldn’t have found more opposite surroundings than east coast forest. 

Here I am an Appalachian trail thru hiker. How does it feel people ask?  I wish it was easier to explain. The truth is, it’s not something tangible that happens the moment you come off the trail.  I talked to Kipper the other day and we were talking about how we find ourselves at night walking outside  and staring at the sky. Looking for something? Not really looking because we found it during those 6 months in the woods. Can I explain easily what we found? No but I can try.

I knew after the first night on the trail that I had entered a place I was familiar with but never really knew. We spend countless hours driving through and past woods and forest, looking but not seeing.  I was now officially and completely in the woods.  Glimpses of the world I knew were fleeting but just frequent enough to make you realize it was there and you were here. Going to the woods is a life changing experience.  It was an experience that was so exhilarating, intimidating, exciting and foreign all at the same time.  The entire experience has almost taken on a dream quality.  It is a period of my life that I will hold onto for the balance of my days.  What still surprises me is that it grabbed me, it held me, it changed me.   

I started the trip with the same knowledge that most people have - minimal. That’s part of what made it so exciting, the unknown. The people who did well were the ones who adapted and were resourceful. You must be able to stay calm and positive even when facing near freezing temperatures with only a light fleece blanket.  You must learn to be comfortable with sleet and 70 mile an hour wind gusts. We coined the phrase on the trail;  vomit of randomness. It seemed to fit and it became the explanation as to why adaptation and acceptance were the only way to survive.  I didn’t hike the trail by myself. Sure I started by myself, but I made some amazing friends. They became family.  I had those who I loved with me every step of the way.

And now I try to make some sense of this crazy dream...

Georgia was absolutely beautiful, though still looking like the tail end of winter, the feeling of a new season in the woods was very strong. The rhododendrons were about all the green you saw. Some starting to bud, eventually turning into one of the most beautiful things on the trail. Excitement and an overwhelming urge to see what was around the bend. I met some hiking partners early. People don’t understand the community aspect of the AT until they experience it. The trail operates the way the world should. Giving, caring, and respect for fellow man. (Let’s be honest though, there were definitely some turds out there. Some things you can never get away from.) The first steps on the trail were taken while sporting a massive ear to ear smile on my face. I had a huge face woody. The start of the trek for me was almost 50% hiking and 50% camping. While not hiking much over 12 or 13 miles, I made it to camp around 1 or 2 in the afternoon a lot of days. The rest of the day was full of fires, eating, and laughing. This somewhat relaxed start didn’t last too long until hiking more than hanging out was the norm.

Not too long after I took off from Springer came the Smoky Mountains. This felt like my old stomping grounds. I treasure the early memories of going to the Smokies as a kid. I have a tough time thinking back on specific moments on the trail but my time in the Smokies were very clear.  Living for the moment created a blurry vision of a lot of the trail. I rarely looked at my guidebook. I pretty much hiked until I saw a familiar face. I rarely knew where we were, how much we had hiked already, where the next shelter was, and what anything was actually called. A lot of people were somewhat obsessive (in a good way) about looking at “the book.” Which was great because I could just ask them where I was. I wanted to let go as much as possible.

Coming out of the Smoky Mountains was the first time I smelled Spring. The elevation dropped considerably and the forest was green and scattered with wild flowers. Every time the forest drastically changed there was a warming feeling of rejuvenation. The hunger for the next turn was overwhelming. I think I told my dad about once every 2 weeks that I was “getting good at this whole hiking thing.” Every time I said it I realized there was still a lot to learn and a LOT of miles still to hike. It all came down to being proud of what you did that day and have an open mind for what the next day would bring.

Another question a lot of people ask is; what was the craziest thing you saw on the trail? Kipper was telling me that this was one of the hardest questions to answer. I totally agree. We came up with this answer;  Almost everything we saw seemed crazier than the last. So many things came up with little warning, most good and some not as good. Nothing was bad. It was just what the trail had in store for us. I mean we were the ones who decided to walk 2,181 miles, you can’t do anything but be grateful for every rock, tree, flower, and animal you see. Start getting negative and you will find yourself on the couch wondering where it all went wrong. I now find myself wondering at times how it all went so right. Answer... positivity, stubbornness, great family and friends, and my dad.

I need to take some time and say that there were multiple hardships that I faced on the trail. For how much the mental aspect of the trail affected the outcome, I always knew that I had my Dad there to get my back. I had my ID stolen/lost, I needed supplies, I had a sweet blog, I got antibiotics shipped to me when the fear that I had Lyme disease set in, I had moral support, I got to bounce feelings and ideas off of someone who knows me better than anyone... All this due to you Dad. I love you and am forever grateful for all that you have done through the trail, past, present, and future. Thank You! I felt like you were right there with me when I stumbled through the clouds and reached out for that sign that I walked so far to touch.

After the Smokies came some great southern trail highlights like Hot Springs, Erwin, Pond Mountain Wilderness, Max Patch, and Roan Mountain just to name a few. Through all of these places is where I developed the mindset and physical strength needed to make it. Through this stretch I got a good sense of how crazy weather can change how you go about your day and night. I saw hail, 70 mile an hour wind gusts, lots of rain, and the heat started to kick in a bit. I could go on for days about the beauty and challenge of this section. If I did, things would start to get a bit redundant. I’ll say this... It was sweet!

DAMASCUS! WHAT UP! The first major milestone. There was a lot that happened for me around Damascus. I took 2 days off here to rest and game plan. Up until this point I had been hiking with Bierburger, Fish, Lemon, Bearbait, and Habitat. I owe a lot to these people. We were a tight knit pack that supported and helped each other every day. I had a blast and it got the hike off to a great start. There was a certain need to venture out of Damascus with a new start. I felt at this point that I was missing a part of the trail that I had looked foward to, solitude and a do whatever I want, whenever I want kind of mentality. Thanks to the crew for everything. I’ll always cherish the memories and friendships. I took some time to relax and figure out my gear. While in Damascus I met Kipper. With no definite plans we set out and quickly met up with Habitat. It was on. We quickly made it to one of the coolest sections of the trail, The Grayson Highlands - wild ponies, crazy changing landscapes, awesome campsites, and nice trail. Shortly after the Highlands we started hiking with Achilles. It was an extremely fun group of people to hike with. Next came the only time on the trail that I really thought I might be done for. Sprained ankle number 3.

The pain that everyone went through was probably the number two most common topic of conversation on the trail, just behind food. Something hurt at all times. You had to learn how to make friends with the pain and eventually start to find a strange joy in it. It made you feel alive and tough. I dealt with a nagging ankle issue for about 1,800 miles. The first sprain coming in Fontana Dam, the second... I think was around Pond Mountain Wilderness, and the third which was pretty bad right before Pearisburg, VA. The first 2 times I had to wait about 10 or 15 minutes before I could begin putting pressure on it and then it eventually loosened up. Not this time. I couldn’t go on. I walked back about a half mile with Habitat, who is one of the nicest people I have ever met, and set up camp. I ended up taking the next day off which was a bummer for multiple reasons. I was falling behind the people I was hiking with.  The next morning  I couldn’t put much weight on it. The day passed as I lay in my tent watching the butterflies. I occasionally walked over to the stream to soak my ankle. The next day it hurt but I could put pressure on it. I had 64 miles to Woods Hole Hostel where I was trying to catch up with everyone.  I got it done in 3 days with 20 plus miles a day on a busted ankle. Wake up early and hike late. Slow and steady. This was my triumphant moment over pain and adversity.  These three days defined my hike.

I met Kipper in Pearisburg. He was with Chimp. This was the first time we had met. Can’t say enough about these two guys. Kipper and I decided to take 4 days off and let my ankle and his shin splints heal. Chimp headed out on the second day. Through the next 4 days we slept in a hotel room with 6 hikers, camped by a set of train tracks where there was a train that passed every hour or so, even through the night, caught some fish, and paid a visit to Blacksburg where Virginia Tech is located. Did I mention we ate copious amounts of food during our time off? It was a lot of fun but we were both eager to get back on the trail. Shortly after we left Pearisburg I met Bluefoot for the first time. I hiked off and on with Bluefoot for the remainder of the trip. Awesome person! A lot great times on the trail were with Bluefoot. You’re my boy Blue!

After Pearisburg Kipper and I were in a strange bubble where we didn’t see many other thru hikers for days on end. It was starting to get hot and water was becoming more and more scarce. Kipper and I decided to try our hand at a little night hiking. The night before we stayed at Four Pines Hostel and ended up staying up until 3 or 4 in the morning. We decided to set our tents up in the barn. Bad idea. At 5:30 in the morning were woken up by about 15 chickens circling our tents squawking. They would not stop and we had only gotten a couple hours of sleep. We hung out all day and then around 8 at night we set out for Daleville, 26 miles away. This being one of the crazier hikes I was a part of. We got tired and incredibly loopy around 4 in the morning. We would have just set our tents up but we had to get to the post office in Daleville by noon that day. We pushed through and made it. After a nap on the patio furniture outside the Kroger we grabbed a hotel and headed out of Daleville early the next morning. Destination Waynesboro, the official start of Shenandoah National Park.

More to come………………..

Home 10/3

Ryan arrived home last evening.  I have added the pictures of the last week in Maine to Katahdin and the drive home.  I had the pleasure of meeting Kipper and Chimp on their way through Cincinnati to their destination of Knoxville and Jacksonville Florida.
 
  It was difficult to watch the parting of this group. They obviously shared an experience few have.  None of them were ready for it to end. They looked like a band of homeless Mennonites.  I truly enjoyed getting to spend their last time together with them. 

Once he wakes up Ryan will take over the blog and provide some thoughts on the trip.

I will be adding the videos as soon as possible. 

Congratulations, Ryan! 10/1/2011

I received a call from Ryan at 10:10 this morning from the peak of Mt Katahdin.  He was exited and emotional.  He summited with 6 other hikers.  He only spoke for a moment and promised to call back when they got off the mountain.   I’ll post his comments when he does.

Congratulations, Ryan, you’ve accomplished something few have.  You’ve gambled everything you’ve done up to this point in your life on a dream. It was a roll of the dice where the odds were dictated not by the house but by you.  You can now say you’ve completed the entire 2,181 miles of the Appalachian trail, not almost, not nearly, but completely.   One thing is clear; regardless of your reason or motivation you have won a great victory of the spirit and mastery of the will.

  No matter what you do with the rest of your life you will have this one 6 month period as testament to your conviction, strength, and commitment.  It’s hard to imagine any tribulation that would come close to the effort required to conquer this feat.  

Katahdin 9/30

Based on last night's GPS ping they camped within Baxter State Park. By air it appears they are within 10 miles of Katahdin Peak, the northern terminus for the AT.  It's hard to say how many trail mile that equals.  They will need to check in with the park headquarters and request permission to make an assault on the peak.  The park is a very highly regulated wildnerness area where human come second to the wildlife and flora. The amount of people allowed in the park is controlled to very low numbers and those climbing Katahdin are required to sign and and gain permission for the climb.

It's hard to say if they will climb today or if they plan on waiting a day or two.  The weather calls for rain until Tuesday.  Based on Ryan's comments last week they may hang out aroud Baxter and soak it all in for a day or two.  It was also important that they have a certain group together to make the climb together.  While you would expect exhuberance over finishing the 2,181 miles there seems some sadness for it all being over.  I would expect there have been some very strong friendships and bonds formed over a 6 month 2,200 adventure from Georgia to Maine.  You have to wonder how the whole experience would change a person. 

I'll post as soon as I hear from him again. 

Videos Posted 9/27

There are around 30 new videos posted in the right column.  There may be a few more added but some are too large to get transfered.  These came from the same picture card as the latest pictures.  Both are listed as 8/29 - 9/20. 

New Pictures and Videos

I received a picture disk in the mail today from Ryan.  This one covers New Hampshire into Maine through the White Mountains.  It has over 500 pictures and 45 videos.  I will post them all.  The pictures are in the right column and it may take a few days to get all of the videos loaded.  This is by far the best group of pictures and scenery he has sent. 

Chairback Mountain, ME 80 miles to Katahdin

Haven't heard a word from Ryan since Monson.  Wasn't really expecting to.  He's in the 100 mile Wilderness somewhere around the Katahdin Ironworks road.  As best I can tell from the GPS ping they camped last night at the Chairback Gap Pond.

As of last night they have about 80 miles to go.  That should put them at Katahdin some time this coming weekend.  Depending on weather they may get held at the park headquarters before being released for the climb. 

Emails and Comments 9/22

Ryan has received literally hundreds of emails over the past months from friends and strangers. He got this one today, for some reason I thought it appropriate to post it here.

Hey,

I just checked out your video, and i'm in total awe. In the moment, living one step at a time. love it. i have books about hiking the AT, but haven't mustered the guts to do it...yet. you are inspiring.

Peace and Love my friend,

A...

Monson,ME and the 100 Mile Wilderness - 9/22

Received another short phone call from Ryan last night.  They arrived in Monson, ME around 5 last evening.  He reported that they have covered 19 miles per day this week.  They’ve been trying to make the last few hundred miles last but he said the trail is so nice and flat in this area that it’s hard not to cover 20 miles in even a half a day. 

I received an email from the post office at 9:00 this morning that Ryan got his package.  We’re still a little tentative about packages since he still doesn’t have a valid photo ID.  Apparently taping his picture to the package did the trick.  They gave the package up.

He sounded nearly romantic in his description of the Maine woods.  In the past few days, he has seen two moose.  He went on and on about the loons on the lakes and the awesome sound they made in the evening.  He described the forest as primitive, Jurassic, and isolated. 

He’s sending a picture disk home with 4GB of pictures and videos he promises to be the best stuff of the trip. 

They are camping this evening in the back yard of a trial supporter in Monson who is trading dinner, breakfast and stay for feeding the chickens and pigs in the morning and picking up all of the apples in his yard.  Ryan felt it was a good deal and a nice change of pace.

At Monson they are at 2066 miles.  That leaves 115 miles to Mount Katahdin.

While writing this Ryan called again to let me know he got his package and to say we’d probably not hear from him again until after Katahdin.  They are entering the 100 Mile Wilderness and Baxter State Park.  There is no telephone reception at all.   He was glad to get his rain pants and heavy boots as they are predicting rain for the next 4 days. 

Ryan will finish the trail with Chimp and Kipper.  These three have been together off and on since Virginia. They have one last goal for the trip other than to climb Katahdin and that is to do a 30 mile day.  They plan on doing this in the 100 Mile Wilderness after Monson.

He said their packs are heavy with food and supplies and he is looking forward to this week with excitement as well as dread.  He said it was really going to be weird not being in the woods after 6 month on the trail.  He knew he was going to miss it.  The adventure is winding down and is finishing with the most remote section of the trail yet.  I copied this description off the web and pasted it here:

THE 100 MILE WILDERNESS

The 100 Mile Wilderness is the northernmost section of the Appalachian Trail; the 2181 mile footpath running along the mountainous region of the Eastern seaboard from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Katahdin in Maine. Surrounded by more than 15 million acres of virtually inaccessible woodlands, this is also one of the most remote sections of trail in the entire United States. This is the land that time forgot; unspoiled, uninhabited and seldom traveled. This is a land of harsh contrasts; pleasing to behold, yet unforgiving to the ill-prepared. Make no mistake about it; this is nature in the raw. Treking across a rough and ragged footpath through an impenetrable forest of dense spruce, fragrant fir, mixed hardwoods and stately pines, the trail provides the traveler with a true Maine wilderness experience. Fording swift moving icy rivers, skirting pristine lakes and ponds, past narrow slate canyons flowing with cascading waters, thunderous waterfalls and deep pockets of emerald pools, the mind begins to wander as the miles slip by. Ascending high mountain ridges with far reaching panoramic views, the Appalachian Trail through Maines’ 100 Mile Wilderness is not only a journey of epic proportions, but a true test of ones own physical strengths and resolve. For many, this is a dream hike; a once in a lifetime experience that calms the soul within. This is a place of solitude and quiet contemplation; an opportunity to explore not only the vast wildlands, but the chance to look within ones own inner self. The 100 Mile Wilderness offers the visitor an outdoor experience rarely found elsewhere. Savor the natural beauty with each awe inspiring mile as you make your way along a path encountering but few, yet marveled by many. In many ways, your life will be changed; never the same. A new awakening to a world that once was and still is. This is Maines’ 100 Mile Wilderness.

Makes you wonder how fast you can drive up to Maine and walk that last 100 miles with them.   I hope to get the picture drive from him by the weekend.  I’ll get the pictures posted ASAP. 

Progress Through Maine, 2,000 miles 9/18

Ryan called Saturday afternoon from Stratton, Maine.  He had hiked into Stratton to resupply.  They will return to the trail before dark. The cell connection was bad and he could only talk for a minute or two. They have run into snow, sleet and hail several times in the past two days.  The tempertaure was down to 27 degrees Friday evening.

This afternoon he passed the 2,000 mile mark.
 
We quickly exchanged a list of supplies and a mail drop location for this Thursday.  He's asked for his heavy boots, heavy socks, rain pants, and picture disks.  He is down to one disk and can't send one home until he gets his others in the mail.  He and hopefully his package will be in Monson Maine on Thursday.

He was in good spirits and continues to talk about making the most of what he has left.

Rangely Maine 9/13

Talked to Ryan for a few minutes this afternoon. He is near Rangely Maine. He is doing well. They have 220 miles to go and are not in a hurry. He said Maine has been beautiful. He will be hitting an outiftter tomorrow and is in bad need of some new shoes. These are worn through.

They had wild grouse and trout for dinner over an open fire. Best meal he has ever had. From here on out no motels, hostels, or inside camping. He said it is as wild as you can get.
They are now figuring an Oct 4 finish date.

While the first part of Maine was the roughest he's seen, this section has been very enjoyable hiking. The climbs are gentle and the trail is soft and easy on the body.

As anxious as everyone was to make it this far they are all less anxious to see it end. He said they will make the most of every mile and miss nothing.

Maine 9/9

I received a short and crackling phone call this afternoon from Ryan.  He was on a mountain peak high enough to gain phone access.  He was on a borrowed Iphone.  His go-phone will not be usable for the balance of the trip to Baxter.  We are still trying to get his Iphone fixed and back to him.  We are running out of drop package options as he moved further into the Maine wilderness.  It’s likely he’ll be without through most of the trip to Baxter. Reception will be very limited regardless.  There are only a handful of trail towns left.  He will try to make contact when he comes to a land line. 
The first 50 miles of Maine are the hardest miles of the trail.  This is the section of trail he has hiked over 1900 miles to experience.  Yesterday he passed through Mahoosuc Notch which is the hardest mile of the hardest section.  It has been raining for the last 3 days and is forecast to continue through the weekend.  The weather is cold.  The trail is wet and slippery.  He claims to be in heaven. His enthusiasm and excitement is very high.  You can hear it in his voice and his struggle for the right words to describe his surroundings. He said the only description he could come up with is “awesome” but he’s worn that one out.  Apparently the woods of Maine are somewhere beyond awesome. He said he couldn’t explain it and you couldn’t imagine it if he could.  Grand ideas often lose their luster when the reality sets in.  Talking to Ryan today it became crystal clear that his reality is at least as good if not better than the idea.  He has not only conquered a significant portion of the idea, he has turned it into the realization of a dream. He has not hesitated or backed down since announcing the trip.  He has never mentioned quit and listening to him I am confident it has not entered his mind.   The trail is simply a matter of will. He demonstrated to himself his own power over his will.  
   

These are very rugged and rocky mountains.  He said most of the hiking is hand over hand. You do as much pulling yourself up as you do pushing yourself along.  Mahoosuc Notch is a cut between two rocky peaks.  The trail is littered with car and bus size boulders that have fallen from the peaks from either side.  Many times he had to remove his pack and drag it behind to squeeze between the boulders. The climb out of the notch rose 1500 feet in a mile.  While this section is particularly rugged it is typical of the trail ahead for the next 300 miles. 

I don’t expect to hear much from him in the coming week.  Hopefully he will be able to send GPS pings so we can track his progress. He is still hiking with Kipper, Chimp, Bluefoot, and the young lady in the last pictures.  I cannot remember her name.  I will get it.  This group will finish the trail together.  Most of the thru hikers around them are all pairing up for the final weeks.  Fellowship has advantages in this wilderness.  I get the impression that they all need to share the experience with someone capable of understanding the accomplishment.

1,900 miles, 5 months - 9/6

Ryan called Saturday from a land phone in Gorham, NH. His ATT GoPhone has reached its Northern Limit. We are trying t get his I phone fixed in time to get it to one of the few mail drops available prior to getting into the remote parts of Maine. It is reported that the 3G capability of his I phone may work at elevation.
He said the hike up Mount Washington was perfect. There are less than 30 days a year that the fog and weather do not diminish the view from the top and he was there for one. The hike was enjoyable but difficult. He said it was a little like walking through a rock quarry. He is anxious to get his photo card home to share the experience. He saw his first moose on the descent. They hiked back off the trail to get water and ran into her. Unfortunately, he did not have his camera but Kipper did and got plenty of pictures.
The weather is getting much colder with every day of hiking. He said it has been a perfect week with daytime in the 60’s and night temps in the 40’s. Unfortunately, their first week in Maine is forecast for rain most of the week. Based upon Sunday’s GPS they should be entering Maine sometime today.
Barring any major setbacks he is still estimating a September 30 arrival at Baxter State Park. He admitted that the 20+ mile days are over. The trials here are rough, rocky, and wind considerable due to rapid elevation changes. A good day is around 12 miles. The Maine / New Hampshire border is exactly 1,900 miles from Springer. He has less than 300 miles to go. In three days, he will be on the trail for 5 months.

Mt Washington Summit, Videos and Pictures - 9/2

I received a GPS ping at 8:30 this morning from the summit of Mount Washington. It’s impressive that they made the climb that early in the day. It’s rare that they even allow a summit attempt due to high winds and bad weather. They will have plenty of time to make it off the mountain this afternoon.
There are 3 new picture and video links in the right column. The last is pictures from 8/16 through 8/28. These are from Vermont into New Hampshire and run right up to the closing of the park for the hurricane. The other two links contain videos he shot on the trail. They are definitely worth watching.

Mt Washington Climb 9/1

Based on the GPS ping they will be making a run at Mt Washington tomorrow morning, weather permitting.  They are at Lake of the Clouds tonight at 5,000 ft of elevation. This is well up the side of Mt Washington and above tree line.

 I received a picture disk from Ryan today with 500 pictures and 7 videos.  These should be on the site Friday. 

Mt. Garfield 8/30

It looks like they had a good day. They are camping on Mt Garfield, the first mountain in the Presidential Range. They are camping at around 4,000 ft of elevation.